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Entrupy State of the Fake

2022 EDITION

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FOREWORD: ENTRUPY STATE OF THE FAKE 2022

The COVID-19 pandemic had an enormous impact on the way people shop and what they buy. Not only did the proportion of sales conducted across traditional e-commerce channels surge, there was a massive increase in shopping via livestream and social networks. At the same time, there were big changes in consumer attitudes about buying pre-owned products. Many shoppers, now aware of their own carbon footprints, are making second-hand their first choice. 

Even in luxury markets, the stigma of “used” is fading fast. According to management consulting firm Bain & Company, second-hand sales of luxury items across all categories grew 65% from 2017 to 2021, a rate five times faster than the primary market. These factors together are leading more and more businesses that have traditionally traded first-hand to enter secondary markets. While the large-scale success of this remains to be seen, these are early days of the modern era in luxury.

The fact that more people are not just buying more pre-owned products but have more choices from where to do so is, in many ways, great. For one, it’s opening avenues for a host of new players and ways to trade pre-owned items, and that’s feeding a robust circular economy. On the other hand, it has also brought to light some of the secondary trade’s inefficiencies, and perhaps even more so, it’s giving bad actors even more ways to profit from the trade of counterfeits. 

The larger marketplaces and platforms have made great strides in the past several years as they’ve instituted initiatives that are proving successful at curbing the trade of illicit products across their properties. Still, younger shoppers are the majority of those participating in resale transactions, and their love of shopping via livestream on platforms like TikTok and Instagram is giving counterfeiters nearly unlimited access to huge audiences. And since there will never be enough Birkin bags or Air Jordan 1s for everyone who wants them, many in those audiences are far more eager to get their hands on the items they want than they are concerned about authenticity.

Entrupy has been an impartial, objective, first-hand witness to these changes. After powering over a million verifications for customers in 70 countries, we have a particularly unique and incredibly global view over the entire market for counterfeits. We also actively partner with stakeholders from businesses, organizations and governments as they work to address it. 

Unfortunately, alongside these advances we’ve seen the other side evolve, acting faster and producing increasingly high quality counterfeits, which come at a high cost to industries, economies and entire societies. 

With this new edition of the State of the Fake report, we are again sharing our proprietary data along with the rare insights we garner from hundreds of thousands of AI-driven evaluations performed on products from around the world with the goals of building awareness about the murky world of counterfeits and what Entrupy, along with the industry, is doing to combat it. We are also looking at resale with a lens extending beyond counterfeits to offer unbiased observations and suggestions about how the industry can move forward and reach its full potential. 

There’s enormous opportunity for merchants in the primary economy to benefit from circular economy initiatives, and many retailers are making the conscious decision to get involved in resale. On the other hand, given the vast size and rapid growth of the secondary market as well as an increasing trust deficit when transacting within it, brands can no longer choose to not participate. Whether or not they play an active role, transactions involve the company, their products and their customers, and that effectively makes them a part. For this reason, it’s important that luxury brands seriously consider their answers to questions including: When a customer buys my brand indirectly, what is my brand’s responsibility to that customer? How do interactions of which we are not part of impact our past, current and future customer relationships? What impact, if any, do these transactions have on our primary market sales? 

Entrupy remains committed to being a gatekeeper of trust in transactions across the luxury industry. Counterfeiting is a massive, generally invisible threat to humanity. But we believe that educating consumers, partners and furthering the industry conversation are critical to ultimately building a better, safer and more forthright society.

As always, we welcome any feedback or questions.

Vidyuth Srinivasan
Chief Executive Officer, Entrupy Inc.

About Entrupy

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ENTRUPY PROVIDES SCALABLE, AI-POWERED PRODUCT VERIFICATION SOLUTIONS TO BUSINESSES, GOVERNMENTS AND OTHER ORGANIZATIONS FOR WHOM TRUST IS MISSION CRITICAL

Entrupy by the Numbers

  • $ 1.7B WORTH OF INVENTORY SECURED by Entrupy's
    technology solutions
    to date*
  • 69 COUNTRIES WITH CUSTOMERS enabling trust for retail businesses globally
  • 23M UNIQUE IMAGES collected from authentic and counterfeit inventory from diverse global sources to train Entrupy's AI algorithms
  • 99.1% ACCURATE Infinitely scalable

*As determined by average retail prices of authentic merchandise on the secondary market for products evaluated by Entrupy’s technology

Entrupy Identification & Verification Solutions

Entrupy’s patented, artificial intelligence-driven solutions protect businesses, buyers and sellers from inadvertently transacting in counterfeit and fraudulent items.

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  • Luxury Authentication

    Entrupy certifies the authenticity of luxury products using an objective, scientifically-proven approach that better protects buyers and sellers of frequently-counterfeited, high-value items.

    Luxury Authentication helps to:

    • Overcome limited expertise
    • Build a reputation of trust
    • Open additional revenue streams
    Authentication
  • Sneaker Authentication

    Building on its luxury roots, Entrupy created a separate solution to address the world of “sneakerheads” and the need for more trust and security in this fast-growing, high-stakes resale trade.

    Sneaker Authentication helps to: 

    • Safeguard against superfakes
    • Build on existing expertise
    • Flip inventory faster
    • Add value while driving revenue
    Authentication
  • Product Fingerprinting

    Easily implemented at any point in the product life cycle, from manufacturing to distribution and beyond, fingerprinting is a powerful way to prevent return fraud and secure supply chains.

    Fingerprinting helps to:

    • Add invisible traceability
    • Speed returns, inventory tracking & reporting
    • Provide after sale services & support
    • Manage liability & protect their brand
    Sneakers
  • Authentication
  • Fingerprinting
  • Sneakers

What they say about Entrupy:

  • Dubai Department of Economic Development

    Partnering with Entrupy gives the Dubai DED a powerful, reliable and scalable method of protecting our economy from the scourge of counterfeit products. With Entrupy’s authentication technology, our inspectors now have the ability to instantly detect fraudulent products and ensure they never reach local markets or the general public. This will help us to continue reinforcing trust in our economy.

    - Mohammad Ali Lootah, CEO Commercial Compliance and Consumer Protection Sector

  • ShopGoodwill.com (Goodwill e-commerce platform)

    Over the years, shopgoodwill.com has benefited from our local community’s generous donations of high-end items. At the same time, we’ve witnessed ‘Caveat Emptor’ first hand, and that skepticism keeps us from maximizing the full value of that generosity. With the Entrupy Certificate of Authenticity, shoppers can feel confident about their transaction and great about themselves, because their purchase benefits the Goodwill mission to change lives through the power of work.

    - Ryan Smith, Senior Director of Online Operations

  • Style Theory (Singapore-based fashion rental business)

    Initially when we first started using Entrupy there were some consigners who tried to sneak some fakes through our system, but since we started saying that we partner with Entrupy these sellers are less confident in submitting their items to us. In terms of bringing down the amount of counterfeits we see the impact Entrupy has had.

    - Brenda Ling, Senior Merchandiser

  • LePrix (Washington-DC based luxury wholesaler)

    Even just one fake can ruin your reputation which is why we are really strict about authentication. We encourage our stores, the retailers that we work with of all sizes to include a Certificate of Authenticity. It can really help close a sale and with the actual sales price of an item. Having that Certificate of Authenticity come with a bag is another seal of approval.

    - Emily Erkel, Co-Founder and CMO

  • Opulent Habits (New Jersey-based luxury consignment business)

    Entrupy has legitimized my business. It is taking it from just a small little mom and pop shop to an online luxury consignment store that's worldwide. And it gives people the guarantee that their handbag that they're buying from me is authentic or there's a money back guarantee on it.

    - Darcy Parnes, Owner

  • Chic Consignment (Massachusetts-based luxury consignment business)

    Before Entrupy, we were relying primarily on experienced staff who were trained to identify the hallmarks of a brand. We would also take the integrity of the consignor into consideration as many of our top consignors consistently bring us high end things, many of which have brand authentication cards, receipts, etc. However, in the age of superfakes, that is no longer enough.

    - May Doherty, Owner

Entrupy Insights:
Counterfeiting in the Luxury Resale Market

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OVERVIEW OF ENTRUPY AUTHENTICATIONS IN 2021

Dollar value* of Authentic and Unidentified items, 2017 - 2021

* As determined by average retail prices of authentic merchandise on the secondary market

Authentic vs. Unidentified items, 2021

Entrupy Insights

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By quantity, the vast majority of items scanned by Entrupy’s business customer base in 2021 were verified as Authentic. 8.3% of items were not certified as Authentic (referred throughout this report as “Unidentified”), down from 9.6% in 2019.

BRANDS WITH MOST AUTHENTICATIONS IN 2021

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By total number of Entrupy authentications performed

  • LOUIS VUITTON

    2021 VALUE
    $177M
    2020 VALUE
    $70M
    MOST AUTHENTICATED MATERIAL
    MONOGRAM CANVAS MONOGRAM CANVAS
    MOST AUTHENTICATED STYLE
    NEVERFULL NEVERFULL
    Average resale price
    $1,400

    Entrupy Insights

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    Between 2019 and 2022, the average retail price for this style increased from $1390 to $2030, a lift of over 50%. As the secondary market generally follows retail trends, resellers are often able to sell at 90%+ the original price.

  • COACH

    2021 VALUE
    $8M
    2020 VALUE
    $7M
    MOST AUTHENTICATED MATERIAL
    LEATHER LEATHER
    MOST AUTHENTICATED STYLE
    Vintage City Bag Vintage City Bag
    Average resale price
    $150

    Entrupy Insights

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    Coach has effectively captured some of its earlier cache with marketing campaigns leveraging Gen Z influencers, positioning as "affordable luxury" and appealing to sustainability-minded shoppers with the Re(Loved) trade-in program.

  • GUCCI

    2021 VALUE
    $44M
    2020 VALUE
    $19M
    MOST AUTHENTICATED MATERIAL
    Leather Leather
    MOST AUTHENTICATED STYLE
    GG Marmont Shoulder Bag GG Marmont Shoulder Bag
    Average resale price
    $1,550

    Entrupy Insights

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    While the family hated the film, The House of Gucci certainly benefited the brand. Searches for vintage styles increased 270% after its release, while resale siteds 1stDibs and Vestiaire Collective reported marked sales increases. According to TheRealReal, a pre-owned Marmont now sells for over 100% of the original price, up from just 70% in 2020.

  • CHANEL

    2021 VALUE
    $143M
    2020 VALUE
    $54M
    MOST AUTHENTICATED MATERIAL
    CALFSKIN / LAMBSKIN LEATHER CALFSKIN / LAMBSKIN LEATHER
    MOST AUTHENTICATED STYLE
    CLASSIC FLAP BAG CLASSIC FLAP BAG
    Average resale price
    $5,500

    Entrupy Insights

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    With three separate retail price increases between 2021 and 2022 and frequent discussion of Chanel bags as a better investment than gold, average resale prices are reaching new heights. On the secondary market, a Classic Flap Bag that is unused or in excellent condition, particularly in caviar leather and in-demand colors, can fetch $2,000-$4,000 more than the original retail price.

  • PRADA

    2021 VALUE
    $40M
    2020 VALUE
    $4M
    MOST AUTHENTICATED MATERIAL
    NYLON NYLON
    MOST AUTHENTICATED STYLE
    Re-Edition Shoulder Bag Re-Edition Shoulder Bag
    Average resale price
    $950

    Entrupy Insights

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    Prada was one of several luxury fashion houses to participate in the revival of popular vintage and 00’s era handbag styles. In 2019, they released the "re-edition" 2000 nylon shoulder bag and a number of other reimagined nylon styles.

    Prada launched Re-Nylon as a move to sustainable sourcing with the goal to convert all nylon products to ECONYL® ( the regenerated nylon fabric) by 2021.

BRAND RANKINGS: MOST AUTHENTICATIONS FROM 2017-2021

By total number of Entrupy authentications performed in each year
  • Louis Vuitton
  • Coach
  • Gucci
  • Chanel
  • Prada
  • Burberry
  • Fendi
  • Saint Laurent
  • Dior
  • Hermès
  • Céline
  • Chloé
  • Balenciaga
  • Bottega Veneta
  • Goyard

ENTRUPY INSIGHTS
BIGGEST MOVERS: 2020 to 2021

Handbags

Balenciaga rose five places: from 13th to 8th

  • Having perfected the art of out-hyping other brands by releasing notable, often shocking styles, Balenciaga is reaching new heights of popularity - and prices at resale. On Vestiaire Collective, sales of the Balenciaga City Bag were up 36% in April 2022 vs. 2021, while the RealReal reported the French maison had the greatest growth in demand across all of its top 10 most popular brands.

Prada rose three places: from 5th to 2nd

  • Prada experienced a resurgence in popularity after declines in the mid 2010s. Entrupy sees particularly strong demand for pre-owned styles in the Asia pacific market, which accounts for 38% of the brand's retail sales.

Fendi dropped two places: from 8th to 10th

  • With average resale prices exceeding retail values, it's possible that the drop in position is a sign that fewer pieces are reaching the resale market. While the hottest style is currently the Fendi Baguette, Entrupy projects the Peekaboo will take over in the near future.

Coach dropped three places: from 2nd to 5th

  • Coach's move down the list of most frequently authenticated brands has less to do with popularity and more to do with price point. With a lower possible profit margin, counterfeiters often produce pieces with such poor quality that they're weeded out of the resale supply chain before authentication is required.

BRANDS WITH HIGHEST UNIDENTIFIED RATES IN 2021

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By proportion of Entrupy authentications with unidentified results

  • GOYARD
  • DIOR
  • Prada
  • Gucci
  • Fendi
  • GOYARD

    2021 UNIDENTIFIED %
    21.4%
    2020 UNIDENTIFIED %
    23.9%
    MOST UNIDENTIFIED MATERIAL
    GOYARDINE CANVAS GOYARDINE CANVAS
    MOST UNIDENTIFIED STYLE
    SAINT LOUIS PM SAINT LOUIS PM
    Average resale price
    $2,100

    Entrupy Insights

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    With a resale value exceeding original retail, the Saint Louis is a top choice on the secondary market as well as with counterfeiters who benefit from the elevated, scarcity-driven prices.

  • DIOR

    2021 UNIDENTIFIED %
    14%
    2020 UNIDENTIFIED %
    13.2%
    MOST UNIDENTIFIED MATERIAL
    OBLIQUE JACQUARD CANVAS OBLIQUE JACQUARD CANVAS
    MOST UNIDENTIFIED STYLE
    BOOK TOTE BOOK TOTE
    Average resale price
    $3,100

    Entrupy Insights

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    Among the brands most mentioned on social media by counterfeiters, Dior scored a major win in the fight against fakes when an Italian court ruled that the famous Book Tote bag and signature central multi-layer stripe are entitled to protection from copycats.

  • Prada

    2021 UNIDENTIFIED %
    11.4%
    2020 UNIDENTIFIED %
    11.5%
    MOST UNIDENTIFIED MATERIAL
    NYLON NYLON
    MOST UNIDENTIFIED STYLE
    RE-EDITION SHOULDER BAG RE-EDITION SHOULDER BAG
    Average resale price
    $950

    Entrupy Insights

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    Data analytics firm Ghost Data found that Prada is the target of approximately 3% of counterfeiters' social media posts, a rate far below that of Louis Vuitton (58%) and significantly lower than Chanel (8.5%) and Fendi (6.7%).

  • Gucci

    2021 UNIDENTIFIED %
    11.2%
    2020 UNIDENTIFIED %
    11.1%
    MOST UNIDENTIFIED MATERIAL
    GG CANVAS GG CANVAS
    MOST UNIDENTIFIED STYLE
    DIONYSUS SHOULDER BAG DIONYSUS SHOULDER BAG
    Average resale price
    $1,550

    Entrupy Insights

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    Gucci is the brand most mentioned by counterfeiters in hashtags and keywords, according to Ghost Data. The firm estimates that nearly 20% of all Instagram posts mentioning the brand are illicit in nature.

  • Fendi

    2021 UNIDENTIFIED %
    11.1%
    2020 UNIDENTIFIED %
    11.3%
    MOST UNIDENTIFIED MATERIAL
    ZUCCA CANVAS ZUCCA CANVAS
    MOST UNIDENTIFIED STYLE
    PEEKABOO BAG PEEKABOO BAG
    Average resale price
    $1,200

    Entrupy Insights

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    In November 2021, Fendi and Versace collaborated on a "Fendace" fashion show, creating the collection as a statement against the CFDA's "legitimization" of counterfeits with their honoring of Dapper Dan, who (in)famously created designs using unauthorized mashups of luxury labels during the 1990s.

EXPLORE AUTHENTICITY RATES AROUND THE GLOBE

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  • THE AMERICAS
  • ASIA-PACIFIC
  • EUROPE & MIDDLE EAST
  • THE AMERICAS

    2021 Unidentified %
    7%
    Most Authenticated Highest Unidentified %
    #1 Louis Vuitton Goyard
    #2 Coach Dior
    #3 Gucci Céline

    Entrupy Insights

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    In the Americas, Bottega Veneta was the fastest growing brand for authentications by Entrupy customers, increasing its volumes by over 200% from 2020 to 2021.

  • ASIA-PACIFIC

    2021 Unidentified %
    10%
    Most Authenticated Highest Unidentified %
    #1 Prada Goyard
    #2 Louis Vuitton Dior
    #3 Chanel Fendi

    Entrupy Insights

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    In Asia-Pacific, Prada was the fastest growing brand for authentications by Entrupy customers, increasing its volumes by almost 2000% from 2020 to 2021.

  • EUROPE & MIDDLE EAST

    2021 Unidentified %
    10.5%
    Most Authenticated Highest Unidentified %
    #1 Louis Vuitton Gucci
    #2 Chanel Goyard
    #3 Gucci Balenciaga

    Entrupy Insights

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    In Europe & Middle East, Coach was the fastest growing brand for authentications by Entrupy customers, increasing its volumes by almost 1400% from 2020 to 2021.

EXPLORE AUTHENTICITY RATES BY COUNTRY

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  • THE AMERICAS
  • ASIA-PACIFIC
  • EUROPE & MIDDLE EAST
  • UNITED STATES
  • CANADA
  • MEXICO
  • PANAMA
  • BRAZIL
  • UNITED STATES

    2021 Unidentified %
    7.0%
    Most Authenticated Highest Unidentified %
    #1 Louis Vuitton Goyard
    #2 Coach Dior
    #3 Gucci Céline

    Entrupy Insights

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    In the United States, Bottega Veneta was the fastest growing brand for authentications by Entrupy customers, increasing its volumes by over 200% from 2020 to 2021.

  • CANADA

    2021 Unidentified %
    6.6%
    Most Authenticated Highest Unidentified %
    #1 Louis Vuitton Goyard
    #2 Chanel Prada
    #3 Gucci Dior

    Entrupy Insights

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    In Canada, Burberry was the fastest growing brand for authentications by Entrupy customers, increasing its volumes by over 100% from 2020 to 2021.

  • MEXICO

    2021 Unidentified %
    9.7%
    Most Authenticated Highest Unidentified %
    #1 Louis Vuitton Bottega Veneta
    #2 Gucci Balenciaga
    #3 Chanel Hermès

    Entrupy Insights

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    In Mexico, Goyard was the fastest growing brand for authentications by Entrupy customers, increasing its volumes by over 1300% from 2020 to 2021.

  • PANAMA

    2021 Unidentified %
    12.9%
    Most Authenticated Highest Unidentified %
    #1 Gucci Burberry
    #2 Louis Vuitton Fendi
    #3 Chanel Dior

    Entrupy Insights

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    In Panama, Gucci was the fastest growing brand for authentications by Entrupy customers, increasing its volumes by over 1100% from 2020 to 2021.

  • BRAZIL

    2021 Unidentified %
    5.3%
    Most Authenticated Highest Unidentified %
    #1 Louis Vuitton Coach
    #2 Chanel Balenciaga
    #3 Gucci Hermès

    Entrupy Insights

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    In Brazil, Goyard was the fastest growing brand for authentications by Entrupy customers, increasing its volumes by over 200% from 2020 to 2021.

  • JAPAN
  • THE PHILIPPINES
  • VIETNAM
  • INDONESIA
  • AUSTRALIA
  • JAPAN

    2021 Unidentified %
    9.8%
    Most Authenticated Highest Unidentified %
    #1 Prada Dior
    #2 Louis Vuitton Goyard
    #3 Balenciaga Prada

    Entrupy Insights

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    In Japan, Prada was the fastest growing brand for authentications by Entrupy customers, increasing its volumes by almost 3600% from 2020 to 2021.

  • THE PHILIPPINES

    2021 Unidentified %
    19.7%
    Most Authenticated Highest Unidentified %
    #1 Chanel Coach
    #2 Louis Vuitton Burberry
    #3 Dior Dior

    Entrupy Insights

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    In the Philippines, Burberry was the fastest growing brand for authentications by Entrupy customers, increasing its volumes by 4500% from 2020 to 2021.

  • VIETNAM

    2021 Unidentified %
    15.0%
    Most Authenticated Highest Unidentified %
    #1 Chanel Coach
    #2 Louis Vuitton Chloé
    #3 Gucci Prada

    Entrupy Insights

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    In Vietnam, Goyard was the fastest growing brand for authentications by Entrupy customers, increasing its volumes by 700% from 2020 to 2021.

  • INDONESIA

    2021 Unidentified %
    11.2%
    Most Authenticated Highest Unidentified %
    #1 Louis Vuitton Goyard
    #2 Chanel Coach
    #3 Gucci Burberry

    Entrupy Insights

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    In Indonesia, Louis Vuitton was the fastest growing brand for authentications by Entrupy customers, increasing its volumes by almost 100% from 2020 to 2021.

  • AUSTRALIA

    2021 Unidentified %
    9.4%
    Most Authenticated Highest Unidentified %
    #1 Saint Laurent Gucci
    #2 Gucci Fendi
    #3 Chanel Goyard

    Entrupy Insights

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    In Australia, Prada was the fastest growing brand for authentications by Entrupy customers, increasing its volumes by almost 700% from 2020 to 2021.

  • UNITED KINGDOM
  • FRANCE
  • ITALY
  • RUSSIA
  • UNITED ARAB EMIRATES
  • UNITED KINGDOM

    2021 Unidentified %
    3.9%
    Most Authenticated Highest Unidentified %
    #1 Chanel Goyard
    #2 Louis Vuitton Céline
    #3 Gucci Chloé

    Entrupy Insights

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    In the United Kingdom, Hermès was the fastest growing brand for authentications by Entrupy customers, increasing its volumes by over 500% from 2020 to 2021.

  • FRANCE

    2021 Unidentified %
    9.4%
    Most Authenticated Highest Unidentified %
    #1 Chanel Prada
    #2 Louis Vuitton Saint Laurent
    #3 Gucci Hermès

    Entrupy Insights

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    In France, Louis Vuitton was the fastest growing brand for authentications by Entrupy customers, increasing its volumes by over 1600% from 2020 to 2021.

  • ITALY

    2021 Unidentified %
    21.3%
    Most Authenticated Highest Unidentified %
    #1 Gucci Chloé
    #2 Louis Vuitton Céline
    #3 Saint Laurent Gucci

    Entrupy Insights

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    In Italy, Prada was the fastest growing brand for authentications by Entrupy customers, increasing its volumes by over 1100% from 2020 to 2021.

  • RUSSIA

    2021 Unidentified %
    12.7%
    Most Authenticated Highest Unidentified %
    #1 Louis Vuitton Balenciaga
    #2 Chanel Goyard
    #3 Dior Coach

    Entrupy Insights

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    In Russia, Chloé was the fastest growing brand for authentications by Entrupy customers, increasing its volumes by over 400% from 2020 to 2021.

  • UNITED ARAB EMIRATES

    2021 Unidentified %
    8.1%
    Most Authenticated Highest Unidentified %
    #1 Louis Vuitton Balenciaga
    #2 Chanel Chloé
    #3 Prada Fendi

    Entrupy Insights

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    In the United Arab Emirates, Chloé was the fastest growing brand for authentications by Entrupy customers, increasing its volumes by almost 300% from 2020 to 2021.

EXPLORE AUTHENTICITY RATES BY STATE

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  • CALIFORNIA
  • NEVADA
  • TEXAS
  • FLORIDA
  • KANSAS
  • NORTH CAROLINA
  • NEW YORK
  • NEW JERSEY
  • OREGON
  • MASSACHUSETTS
  • CALIFORNIA

    2021 Unidentified %
    7.1%
    Most Authenticated Highest Unidentified %
    #1 Louis Vuitton Goyard
    #2 Coach Balenciaga
    #3 Gucci Fendi

    Entrupy Insights

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    In California, Coach was the fastest growing brand for authentications by Entrupy customers, increasing its volumes by over 100% from 2020 to 2021.

  • NEVADA

    2021 Unidentified %
    5.3%
    Most Authenticated Highest Unidentified %
    #1 Louis Vuitton Goyard
    #2 Gucci Dior
    #3 Chanel Céline

    Entrupy Insights

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    In Nevada, Balenciaga was the fastest growing brand for authentications by Entrupy customers, increasing its volumes by over 12000% from 2020 to 2021.

  • TEXAS

    2021 Unidentified %
    5.0%
    Most Authenticated Highest Unidentified %
    #1 Louis Vuitton Goyard
    #2 Gucci Dior
    #3 Chanel Hermès

    Entrupy Insights

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    In Texas, Dior was among the fastest growing brands for authentications by Entrupy customers, increasing its volumes by over 400% from 2018 to 2019.

  • FLORIDA

    2021 Unidentified %
    13.8%
    Most Authenticated Highest Unidentified %
    #1 Louis Vuitton Goyard
    #2 Gucci Céline
    #3 Coach Hermès

    Entrupy Insights

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    In Florida, Saint Laurent was the fastest growing brand for authentications by Entrupy customers, increasing its volumes by almost 200% from 2020 to 2021.

  • KANSAS

    2021 Unidentified %
    13.1%
    Most Authenticated Highest Unidentified %
    #1 Coach Goyard
    #2 Louis Vuitton Balenciaga
    #3 Gucci Dior

    Entrupy Insights

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    In Kansas, Saint Laurent was the fastest growing brand for authentications by Entrupy customers, increasing its volumes by over 300% from 2020 to 2021.

  • NORTH CAROLINA

    2021 Unidentified %
    7.6%
    Most Authenticated Highest Unidentified %
    #1 Coach Goyard
    #2 Louis Vuitton Hermès
    #3 Gucci Dior

    Entrupy Insights

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    In North Carolina, Bottega Veneta was the fastest growing brand for authentications by Entrupy customers, increasing its volumes by 700% from 2020 to 2021.

  • NEW YORK

    2021 Unidentified %
    6.0%
    Most Authenticated Highest Unidentified %
    #1 Louis Vuitton Goyard
    #2 Gucci Chloé
    #3 Chanel Céline

    Entrupy Insights

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    In New York, Bottega Veneta was the fastest growing brand for authentications by Entrupy customers, increasing its volumes by over 500% from 2020 to 2021.

  • NEW JERSEY

    2021 Unidentified %
    9.1%
    Most Authenticated Highest Unidentified %
    #1 Louis Vuitton Prada
    #2 Gucci Fendi
    #3 Chanel Gucci

    Entrupy Insights

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    In New Jersey, Bottega Veneta was the fastest growing brand for authentications by Entrupy customers, increasing its volumes by almost 400% from 2020 to 2021.

  • OREGON

    2021 Unidentified %
    12.7%
    Most Authenticated Highest Unidentified %
    #1 Coach Céline
    #2 Louis Vuitton Goyard
    #3 Gucci Hermès

    Entrupy Insights

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    In Oregon, Chloe was the fastest growing brand for authentications by Entrupy customers, increasing its volumes by over 600% from 2020 to 2021.

  • MASSACHUSETTS

    2021 Unidentified %
    12.1%
    Most Authenticated Highest Unidentified %
    #1 Louis Vuitton Hermès
    #2 Gucci Goyard
    #3 Chanel Céline

    Entrupy Insights

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    In Massachusetts, Goyard was the fastest growing brand for authentications by Entrupy customers, increasing its volumes by over 300% from 2020 to 2021.

BUSINESS TYPES WITH HIGHEST UNIDENTIFIED RATES IN 2021

BUSINESS TYPE INVENTORY SOURCE TYPICAL RISK PROFILE 2021 UNIDENTIFIED % 2019 UNIDENTIFIED %

C2C MARKETPLACE

Items often come from an individual's personal collection, which may have been purchased from other resellers and/or thrift stores to be "flipped" for profit.

Previously the highest, however marketplaces are implementing more aggressive anti-counterfeit enforcement measures that are dramatically reducing fakes across their channels.

5.5% 10.8%

PAWN

Items are purchased from individuals at the point of sale.

High: Merchandise coming from individual consumers and being taken in by untrained salespeople significantly increases the risk of counterfeits.

12.7% 10.2%

OFFLINE RESELLER

Items are often purchased outright from individual consumers who may or may not have an established reputation.

Medium: Merchandise coming directly from consumers and nonexpert sales people increase the risk of counterfeits entering the supply chain.

10.1% 8.2%

ONLINE RESELLER

Items often come from a stable of reliable sources such as consignors and other resale companies, with whom the reseller has a history of transacting.

Low: Unreliable sources are generally eliminated from the supply chain before they can exert negative impact.

8.1% 7.0%

WHOLESALER

Because these specialized players have strict rules for intake and sourcing, items usually come from reputable sources that may include other businesses, auctions and marketplaces.

Very Low: High levels of expertise & experience keep "bad actors" from penetrating the supply chain.

0.8% 1.0%

Entrupy Insights

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Pawn, Offline Resellers and Online Resellers

Each increased in Unidentified rates from 2019 to 2021, indicating a higher rate of fake inventory infiltrating these businesses’ supply chains. Contributors to this result include:

  • A reduction in the availability of inventory in first hand retail outlets (e.g. brand-owned and department stores), which increased consumer demand for luxury goods in secondary markets
  • An increase in sourcing from less trusted channels (e.g. online and/or cross-border sources), which increased the potential for bad actors to infringe upon their supply
C2C Marketplaces

Substantially decreased in Unidentified rates from 2019 to 2021, indicating a lower rate of fake inventory infiltrating these businesses’ supply chains. Contributing to this major improvement over the last two years has been the marketing campaigns by large marketplaces of their authentication programs which has deterred bad actors from listing fake products on these marketplaces.

INTRODUCING ENTRUPY SNEAKER AUTHENTICATION

Launched in 2021, Entrupy Sneaker Authentication is an application capable of verifying the authenticity of popular sneaker styles in the resale ecosystem. The findings below are based on results from select marketplaces participating in a beta testing program conducted during the final stages of application development in 2021. As the sample size is relatively small compared to the entire resale ecosystem, Entrupy cannot yet conclude that these numbers are indicative of the broader market. We look forward to sharing more sneaker resale market insights in the next edition of the State of the Fake report.

BRAND 2021 UNIDENTIFIED % (BRAND) MOST POPULAR SERIES 2021 UNIDENTIFIED % (SERIES)

Jordan

15.6%
Jordan 1
Jordan 4
Jordan 11
24.9%
13.6%
18.3%

Yeezy

15.9%
Yeezy Boost 350
Yeezy Boost 700
Yeezy Boost 500
24.0%
18.3%
23.2%
BRAND 2021 UNIDENTIFIED % (BRAND) MOST POPULAR SERIES (UNIDENTIFIED %)

Jordan

15.6%
Jordan 1 (24.9%)
Jordan 4 (13.6%)
Jordan 11 (18.3%)

Yeezy

15.9%
Yeezy Boost 350 (24.0%)
Yeezy Boost 700 (18.3%)
Yeezy Boost 500 (23.2%)

Entrupy Insights

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Jordan

With everlasting popularity and resale prices exceeding retail by an average of 60% (according to StockX), Jordans are an obvious target for counterfeiters. The Jordan 1, in particular, is among the most popular shoe styles of all time, therefore it's not surprising to see an Unidentified rate of 24.9% that was well above the 15.6% average across all Nike series in the beta testing program. While also exceedingly popular, the Jordan 4 had an Unidentified rate that was slightly below the average.

Yeezy

While resale prices for Yeezy styles generally don't exceed retail to the same extent as Jordans, the brand's cost of manufacturing is typically lower, leaving counterfeiters ample room for profit margin. The three most popular Yeezy series all exceeded the average 15.9% Unidentified rate for adidas styles. The 500s, in particular, are a popular second option for sneakerheads unable to get their hands on 350s, yet with limited releases, they remain in high demand and popularity in resale markets.

Combating the Counterfeiting Problem

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COLLABORATIVE APPROACHES ACROSS INDUSTRY ARE REQUIRED TO COMBAT THE COUNTERFEITING PROBLEM

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  • Brand
  • Retailers
  • Marketplaces
  • Government
  • Industry

Brand

Key problems

  1. Brands lose revenues from the diversion of genuine sales to counterfeit channels.

  2. The widespread distribution of counterfeits can dilute a brand's value in the eyes of consumers.

  3. Intellectual property enforcement can be a "whack a mole" game for brands.

Common solutions

End-to-end product traceability solutions

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  • These solutions enable products to be traced through their entire lifecycle, both physically and digitally - improving information flows, visibility and the detection of unauthorized or counterfeit products through the supply chain.
  • By extending these solutions to consumers, brands can empower customers to verify a product's authenticity and identity at the point of sale, consumption or in the after market.

Close collaboration with law enforcement

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  • Brands commonly work with governments and law enforcement agencies to support investigations into counterfeit activities, and provide evidence that lead to the prosecution of counterfeiters and their distributors and buyers.

Examples in action

LVMH's Growing Aura Blockchain Consortium

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  • Launched in April 2021, the LVMH-founded blockchain initiative whose members include Prada, Cartier, OTB Group and Mercedes Benz has also partnered with the Sustainable Markets Initiative to add information from the Digital ID program, which tags products and records details about their manufacturing and sustainability credentials. In addition to giving consumers transparency into a product's sustainability and provenance, the technology preserves the identity of a product beyond the initial point of sale, ensuring authenticity for after sales actions including resale.

Pfizer, 3M and Merck help Homeland Security Combat COVID-19 Fraud

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  • In an unprecendented example of public-private coordination, multinational corporations including the pharma and consumer goods giants worked with law enforcement on Operation Stolen Promise, an initiative created to protect the public from bad actors exploiting the pandemic for financial gain. In one year, the collaboration resulted in 3,000 seizures of prohibited COVID-19 test kits as well as counterfeit drugs, masks and $54.7 million in illicit proceeds. As of September 2021, law enforcement had made 362 criminal arrests, obtaining at least 31 convictions.

Entrupy Insights

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In 2019/20, Entrupy was selected as 1 of 26 companies to take part in Season 3 of LVMH's La Maison des Startups accelerator program, fostering collaboration with other leading technology startups and LVMH's 75 brands to develop innovative solutions.

Retailers

Key problems

  1. Retailers bear the risk of fraudulent customer returns entering their product inventory.

  2. Publicized cases of counterfeits being discovered by customers on shelves or after sales, can negatively impact a retailer's reputation and erode buyer trust.

  3. Retailers lose revenues from the diversion of genuine sales to counterfeit channels.

Common solutions

Authentication technology solutions to verify products

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  • First and second-hand retailers have traditionally relied upon internal knowledge and subjective verification procedures to verify the authenticity of goods - this commonly presents a challenge with expertise being difficult to source, maintain and scale.
  • Increasingly, retailers are turning to sophisticated product authentication technologies (such as those offered by Entrupy) to enable a more foolproof and efficient process for verifying goods.

Information sharing between brands and retail partners

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  • Close relationships between brands and retailers have become more critical than ever, to enable strong controls over the sourcing and distribution of authorized goods.
  • For retailers, increasing the scope in which product security information is shared by their brand suppliers empowers stronger detection and enforcement efforts at retail level.

Examples in action

UK luxury department store: Combating retail returns fraud with "fingerprints"

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  • Armed with the Entrupy Fingerprinting solution, the UK luxury retailer can instantly determine whether a customer's return is the same exact item that was originally fulfilled to that customer.
  • At the point of processing a return, an employee can take a single microscopic image using the Entrupy Fingerprinting app, to compare it against the original for tiny discrepancies that may indicate potential returns fraud.

The Rise of Tech-fueled Cooperative Supply Chains

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  • After acquiring two logistics businesses, Retailer American Eagle created a new model for supply chains that enables members to share virtualized access to their infrastructure. Over 50 other retailers including Saks, Fanatics and Peloton have since joined the platform.
  • The success of the model requires state-of-the-art traceability technology and data sharing protocols such as that of the The EPCIS 2.0 standard, now in the final stages of ratification with the GS1 global standards organization. With a publish-and-subscribe methodology, supply chain data and events can easily be passed between independent organizations using web protocols.

Entrupy Insights

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Entrupy Fingerprinting enables the unique characteristics of individual products - that are often imperceptible to the human eye - to be registered and subsequently verified with a single microscopic image.

Marketplaces

Key problems

  1. Publicized cases of counterfeits being sold on online marketplaces can negatively impact their reputation and erode buyer and seller trust.

  2. Online marketplaces are increasingly bearing legal liability for counterfeit goods being sold on their platforms by bad acting sellers.

  3. Listings takedowns and other forms of policing can be challenging for online marketplaces, due to the scale and diversity of listings, and anonymity of buyers and sellers.

Common solutions

Online monitoring solutions and listings takedowns

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  • Online monitoring solutions systematically query search engines and crawl websites of interest to identify potential counterfeit listings and brand infringements.
  • Leading online marketplaces commonly operate their own self-monitoring programs which enlist the help of brands and industry groups to detect and remove counterfeit listings being sold on their platforms.

Mandatory authentication processes

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  • To supplement online monitoring solutions, many online marketplaces have embedded product authentication as a key part of the transactional workflow.
  • In such cases, products are required to be authenticated, either by human experts, or using product authentication solutions, such as Entrupy, prior to final delivery to the end buyer.

Examples in action

Amazon's Multi-Pronged, Tech-powered Approach

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  • In 2021, world's largest marketplace invested $900 million and dedicated 12,000 employees to the fight against counterfeits, which ultimately kept 4 billion bad listings off the site. In addition to the company's automatic, AI-driven monitoring system, Amazon empowers brands to take an active role. Over 700,000 brands are now enrolled in the Amazon Brand Registry and another 20,000 are signed up for the Project Zero self-service solution.
  • While the company has teamed up with well-known brands like Cartier in taking legal action, critics say the ecommerce giant is failing to provide adequate protection to smaller brands who have fewer resources with which to fend off fakes themselves. "

Marketplaces' Sneaker Authentication

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  • StockX, the e-commerce auction site for sneakers, luxury handbags, watches and streetwear requires that every product sold on their platform undergo strict product verification and authentication processes involving more than 25 elements, starting with the shoe box.
  • eBay includes sneakers in its “Authenticity Guarantee” program, which is run by a dedicated team of authenticators that inspect the sneakers sold on the platform to ensure that shoppers are buying authentic products. In the first year of the program, the company authenticated 1.5 million pairs.

Entrupy Insights

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Entrupy is an authentication partner for e-commerce marketplaces and retailers, powering the instant detection of counterfeit goods at the point of transaction.

Government

Key problems

  1. Customs and border patrol agencies are often hampered by manual inspection processes that are based on human judgement, which are inefficient and difficult to scale.

  2. Tax revenues are displaced by the diversion of genuine sales to counterfeit channels.

  3. Global enforcement activities have become more challenging with the increasing sophistication of counterfeiting production and distribution practices.

Common solutions

Domestic enforcement activities

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  • Domestic efforts to curtail counterfeiting are fought on multiple fronts - via inspections at customs and borders, raids and investigations of suspected counterfeit distributors, and coordination across multiple government and law enforcement agencies.

Multilateral cooperation across international agencies

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  • Bilateral and multilateral engagements between government agencies are necessary for effective exchange of information on intellectual property enforcement operations, share best practices and to facilitate joint enforcement actions.

Examples in action

Dubai local enforcement efforts

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  • The Dubai Department of Economic Development (DED) partners with brands, international agencies and technology solution providers (including Entrupy) to fight against local counterfeiting activities. In 2016, the DED announced it had recovered goods worth Dh 1.6 billion (USD $435 million).
  • According to Mr. Ahmad Almheiri, Senior Manager of Trademark and Commercial Agencies Disputes at the DED: "The establishment of administrative level actions against counterfeiters will effectively help in reducing the visibility of counterfeit products in the market."

Europol, Eurojust and Interpol's In Our Sites (IOS) Operation

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  • In an operation taking place from May to mid-November 2021, a coalition led by Europol’s Intellectual Property Crime Coordinated Coalition (IPC3), the European Union Agency for Criminal Justice Cooperation (Eurojust) and the International Criminal Police Organization (Interpol) shut down nearly 500,000 websites and seized 2.6 million euros worth merchandise including more than 42,000 counterfeit shoes, 180,000 boxes of counterfeit medical products, copies of artworks and around 40 vehicles.
  • The twelfth edition of the effort also involved agencies from 30 countries.

Entrupy Insights

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Entrupy is an authentication partner for Dubai's Department of Economic Development, enabling local agents to instantly detect counterfeits during inspections and raids.

Industry

Key problems

  1. Consumers commonly lack awareness about the prevalence and risks of counterfeit products.

  2. A whole-of-industry approach to fight the global counterfeiting problem is difficult to facilitate, due to a hesitation by stakeholders to share commercially sensitive information.

  3. Intellectual property rights laws and policies are not standardized globally, which creates challenges for international enforcement actions.

Common solutions

Public education campaigns

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  • Industry bodies representing brands and other industry professionals work to curtail counterfeiting and protect the shared interests of their members globally.
  • They are mandated by their members to inform the general public of the dangers of counterfeiting.

Influence with international governments

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  • Industry bodies often undertake advocacy work with international governments to advance the interests of their members against counterfeiting.
  • They commonly promote thought leadership within their mandate, to influence the public and ultimately to enact policies which protect stakeholders from counterfeiting.

Examples in action

The Go For Real Anti-Counterfeiting Campaign

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  • In 2021, The United States Patent and Trademark Office (USPTO) and the National Crime Prevention Council (NCPC) teamed up to launch a campaign armed at helping tweens and teens understand the dangers of counterfeits and to educate them on how to detect fakes.
  • The campaign included public service videos starring McGruff the Crime Fighting Dog as well as the an interactive game, "The Dupe Detector."

Japan's Association Against Counterfeit Product Distribution (AACD)

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  • The AACD is an organization comprised of distribtuors of second-hand products as well as those imported to the country without involvement of the IP holder. [paragraph break] [bullet] In addition to providing members with a strict set of conditions to which they must adhere, the organization takes an active role in confirming legitimacy of products using scientific methods (3D digital microscopy, fluorescent X-ray analyses) and trained staff."

Entrupy Insights

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In 2020, Entrupy is a member of the inaugural Unifab Lab, a forum which enables brands, solution providers, and intellectual property experts to exchange about the needs and strategies in the fight against counterfeiting.

OUR RECOMMENDATIONS TO FIGHT THE GLOBAL COUNTERFEITING PROBLEM

  1. Brands must build even closer bonds with multiple sales-channels across the industry

    • With only a limited amount of information shared by brands, it is extremely difficult for their supply chain partners (including suppliers, retailers, distributors), to implement effective controls that protect them from counterfeits infiltrating their inventory.
    • In the past, brands were able to focus their efforts on maintaining product integrity by retaining tight control over distribution, however this is no longer effective. Today’s consumers are empowered to define their own avenues of commerce, including through secondary market platforms, and as long as they can trade across other channels, they will. Brands need to increase cooperation with these other networks regardless of their official relationship status in order to protect consumers from the increased trade of counterfeits occurring on these platforms.
    • A more effective, scalable solution is one that emphasizes bilateral information sharing. By forging closer, multilateral relationships with stakeholders through the supply chain, brands will enable retailers, resellers, marketplaces and other avenues of commerce to independently identify counterfeits, conduct investigations and take enforcement actions when corruption occurs.
  2. Brands must strengthen their engagement with consumers

    • Traditionally, luxury brand marketing has emphasized heritage, quality and exclusivity, however the profile of the luxury consumer is changing rapidly, particularly as awareness of fashion's environmental impact grows.
    • For these brands, it is a growing imperative to adjust messaging in order to connect with this new demographic, many of whom are shopping on the secondary market. While we have seen brands adopt messaging highlighting sustainability and circularity, most are not yet acknowledging the large and growing population of enthusiasts who are buying through resale channels.
    • To enhance relationships with customers shopping through the primary market while also forging new bonds with those who currently shop second hand, brands should extend their after-sales service and support to customers regardless of where they purchased the product.
    • Brands should also increase collaboration with industry bodies and leverage customer engagement touchpoints to deter further trade in counterfeits by educating them about the personal risks and societal costs of counterfeiting.
  3. Industry stakeholders must jointly co-opt new anti-counterfeiting technology standards

    • While adoption of advanced anti-counterfeiting technologies such as IoT-powered product security solutions and digital traceability platforms built on the blockchain is growing, these are primarily at a brand level. Other parties in the supply chain who could benefit from these initiates are unable to, either (a) due to a lack of multilateral information sharing (as mentioned above), or (b) due to a lack of industry-level technology standards which makes deployment difficult or unscalable. Further, counterfeits, just like anti-counterfeit technology, are constantly evolving and improving in quality, creating a moving target for enforcement.
    • Currently, artificial intelligence-based solutions are proving effective at staying ahead of the fakes, however wider adoption across the industry will be needed to slow the manufacture and sale of counterfeit products. According to Mr. Ahmad Almheiri, Senior Manager of Trademark and Commercial Agencies Disputes at the Dubai Department of Economic Development (DED): “Technology can serve as a reliable median between authorities and trademark owners and/or their representatives by establishing an infringement claim platform which allows right holders to file an infringement case against the counterfeiters. Moreover the continuous development within AI technology physically help in identifying counterfeit and digitally aids websites to identify counterfeit goods based on different attributes.”
    • Put simply, the tighter the network of enforcement, the harder it will be for counterfeits to be sold, and once profit becomes difficult to achieve, counterfeiters will be discouraged from producing them at the current scale. The way to create the tightest anti-counterfeiting network is for stakeholders on all fronts to collaboratively create industry-based technology standards that can be widely adopted without fear of compromising brand confidentiality or giving away trade secrets.
  4. Authentication needs to be table-stakes in the resale world

    • As the resale industry has grown, we have seen a number of platforms promoting their authentication processes as a key competitive differentiator. This may help attain marketing and customer acquisition goals in the short term, however it may be detrimental to growth across the entire industry in the long term.
    • A healthy and prosperous resale ecosystem is contingent on consumer trust. Every claim of “the best authenticators,” insinuates competing platforms are unreliable, which reduces trust in the entire ecosystem. Further, excessive promotion of authentication capabilities can attract lawsuits, which also impact the reputation of the entire industry.
    • To truly instill consumer trust and help keep fakes out of all markets necessitates a united front. Rather than attempting to compete by implicating the competitors, all players should work together, sharing intelligence and best practices and partnering in the fight against counterfeiting
  5. International authorities must be provided stronger laws, tools and resources to enforce IP rights

    • The lack of universally strong and consistent trademark rights regulation around the world hampers authorities' enforcement capabilities in different jurisdictions.
    • This is gradually changing. In China, for example, export control for counterfeit goods is an active focus, and there is a concerted effort to more widely enforce regulations at their borders.
    • To achieve broader success and curtail the business of counterfeits, initiatives like these need to be expanded, and greater collaboration is necessary. Working together, international lawmakers, brands and industry bodies can ensure authorities have the requisite legal tools to fight counterfeiters at points of manufacturing and distribution as well as at borders.

SOURCES AND ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

Sources:

Acknowledgements:

We would like to provide our special thanks to the following customers and partners who provided us with access to their expert commentary and/or access to their digital media for use in this report: